The expectation was maximum. The catwalk hung the sign of absolute and in the first row sat women and men as influential as Rihanna, ASAP Rocky, Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, the man they all looked at. West has been a key player in the takeoff of Virgil Abloh who refers to him as his mentor. Abloh was West's artistic advisor and together they sketched what is today one of the most important firms in the Off-White fashion world.
Abloh presented his collection for Off-White in Paris on Wednesday but now plays in the first division debuting on the catwalk as creative director of the Louis Vuitton house, founded in 1854, which is synonymous with luxury.
The parade has several readings but perhaps the most relevant is the message that the designer wants to launch: making diversity a social trend. That's why the models that jumped to the catwalk were of different races and cultures. Another of his messages has more to do with his personal life. "Everything is possible, you can do it too", says Abloh in his social networks to launch the world a song of hope and make people believe that dreams must be pursued because, sometimes, they are fulfilled; come where you come from, wherever you are.
The parade began with radiant white garments, a tone that stood out especially on black boys. Winks to hip-hop are downgraded and elegant and even the rappers' gold chains are dyed white to achieve a total immaculate look. Quilted fencing style jackets, plush-touch jackets, cargo pants and vests with several pockets, transparent t-shirts.
The patterns play to stick to the body or to hide it completely, always in an urban style, looking for the comfort and versatility of the garments that have the power to work at any time of the day. The protocols are over, there are no clothes for the day, afternoon or night. Now there are pieces that, depending on how and with what you put them, acquire a different style or another. Almost all the parades seen so far have several things in common, but above all the attachment to traditional garments that are now 'sold' with novel fabrics and author's details stands out.
Little by little, the color palette grows in intensity and richness. We see clothes in camel, sometimes mixed with others in acid yellow, green, powerful red roses. Regarding the patterns, the use of Tie-dye (very present in the catwalks) is noteworthy, but above all the image of Dorothy, protagonist of The Wizard of Oz, sleeping on a flower bed is striking. Abloh does not seem to want to wake up from the dream he is living. (Curiously, today marks the 49th anniversary of the death of Judy Garland)
Louis Vuitton writes a new page in its history with the first collection of Virgil Abloh. The designer, at the end of the parade, melted into an emotional embrace with Kanye West. Both cried with happiness.